Instructions for cleaning the carburet

carb_G10_vs_G11

Step by step

Compare the two arms or their length on the two marked positions (1) and (2).

A conversion between the two arms is of course possible, they can be exchanged!

(3), (4) and (5) shows the greatest difference between the carburetors. These differences are the vacuum system. This system regulates the slow down speed. (typically it takes between 3 and 4 seconds for the motor to go down from 3000 to 1000 revolutions per minute) you can adjust the duration with the screw to position (8).

As you can see here, the two pins marked with (6) and (7) are different in length on the G10 and G11. The G10 air filter is simply a bit thicker than the G11.
 
From here only pictures of the carburettor of the G10 are shown!#

How to dismantle the G10 carburettor?

After the carburettor is removed from the car and in front of you, make sure that the place where the gas cable is hung in is pointing in your direction.
like this:

carb_G10_1

Unhook this spring in the upper area, marked with (1)

Now pull out this small metal fuse marked with (2) and push the small lever backwards.

Now let's look at the top of the carburetor.

carb_G10_2

Take a 12mm fork or ring spanner and open the screw marked with (1) and remove it. Now you can put the whole arm on the side as shown on the arrow to (2).

Now only remove the vacuum hose in the direction indicated by the arrow.

Now the upper part of the carburetor is ready to be removed after opening the other screws.

Once all screws have been loosened from the top, the upper part of the carburettor can now be removed upwards.

Please make sure that you do not incline this upper part at all and if you do so carefully, make sure that you do not incline it by 180 degrees.

That looks something like this.

carb_G10_3

Now the upper part of the carburettor can be removed upwards, but please be very careful and without turning the removed upper part!

NEVER tip over one of the two carburetor parts!!!

carb_G10_4

This picture shows you why you shouldn't simply turn the upper part around!

See that little bolt (marked with the two red arrows?) This pin is not attached in any way! If you tilt the upper part of the carburettor now, there is a danger that the bolt will fall out and the float will fall out!

carb_G10_skimmer

It's usually no problem to find these two parts (floats and bolts) which should fall down anyway, but the 3 tiny parts which are BACKGROUND you won't find them!

carb_G10_skimmer_2
carb_G10_skimmer_3

That's what's behind the float! The arrows show you the direction in which you can reinstall these parts with the number in which order!

Believe me, if these parts fall off, you won't find them!# I'm so happy #


If you now carelessly turn the lower part of the carburettor upside down, you "find" these 2 tiny parts...

carb_G10_9
carb_G10_10


The red arrow shows you again where these two parts come from.

To install the small ball first insert the small ball and THEN the small square pin!

Here we have our first diagnosis point!

The Venturi nozzles, they can be easily loosened with the 2 screws and then removed. There are 2 Venturi jets in a carburettor like this!

carb_G10_venturi_1
carb_G10_venturi_2

Can you see it?I'm not going to do anything.

Here you can see lime deposits which may be caused by the prolonged standing or lying down of a carburettor or, of course, simply a sign of aging because the gasoline almost always contains water. If this looks like it in my picture then it's better to look for another carburettor.

The problem would NOT be to remove these deposits from the Venturi nozzle, but the area where this part is normally located can NOT be dismantled, this is an aluminum casting block and is the part between the two main nozzles and the Venturi nozzles!

Possibly with a strong chemistry club or a professional ultrasound device you CAN clean it (remember the small things for household use, MUCH too weak!) In most cases this is the exit of your carburetor if it looks like this...

Now the main jets should be checked to see if they are continuous.


I recommend you to buy some cans of "Carburetor Cleaner" or even a few cans of
The term "throttle valve cleaner" means the aerosol cans for CLEANING are not the fuel additive that is added to the gasoline!

A compressor is also absolutely necessary to clean these nozzles and ducts, but first let them all work in "carburetor cleaner"...

car_g10_tube

Remove the vacuum hose marked with 1, please!


now to the lower part of the carburetor....

schraube2

Unscrew the screws marked 1 and 2 (no fear of falling out) *g*

Let's get back to this picture:

carb_G10_1

At the place of marker 3 there is normally a metal fuse (not visible in this picture) as well, please remove it and remove the arm of the vacuum box.

On the top of this bottom part you will find 2 small screws on the left and right side of the screen, which open either with a Phillips screwdriver or an 8mm wrench.

The lower base of the carburettor can now be removed.

carburator

The test is now par excellence by unscrewing the idling nozzle (see arrow)

It is best to twist them out with a small slotted screwdriver, which is inserted between the head and the round cover and tilted and with that the nozzle is turned out.

THEN try to blow through the now open hole with your mouth, if this does NOT succeed, then soak it properly with a carburetor cleaner and leave it to act, then work with compressed air and even more carburetor cleaners until the piece can be blown through with your mouth.

Check the idling nozzle or better yet the tip to see if it is really still pointed, if not replace.

The initial position of the idling nozzle is:

Turn until stop and then 4 full turns back.


Now clean all parts of the carburettor and reassemble them in reverse order with new seals!

It is essential to remove the remnants of the old seals, otherwise a new error will occur!# I'm so happy #

It is also not harmful to replace all the negative pressure hoses and make sure that the channels are clean and continuous when you try to blow through with your mouth.


Adjusting the high speed:

car_G10_choke

By screwing in the screw marked with 1, the speed is increased which is adjusted while the choke is being pulled, this has no effect on the normal run.

The screw with 2 inscribed at best not change at all, it regulates the home position of the 1. Carburettor flap (the flap in the base below). The basic position should be 8 degrees, how you want to measure it is up to you!

But smaller tip. If the CO content is too high when the engine is warm and the vehicle dies off if you roll to the traffic light, then the CO is too high and you can very carefully (in 1/4 to 1/2 turns of this screw) push the button, in between again and again DRIVING, do not try to adjust the position. Too fat means screw out, too lean means screw in.

I'd like to give you a tip on that. The CO content is even at my much lower than the stated 1.5 Vol %, that shouldn't bother you, the TÜV doesn't bother you, as long as the engine runs well otherwise it doesn't have too little power (that would mean too lean!)! everything's fine.

The filter marked with 3 in the last picture is DIRECTION-ORIENTED, that means either you remember what it was like or you try to suck on it. On the side on the suction is possible that belongs to the side where the vacuum box is!
 

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Daihatsu Charade G10